沒有休息，就沒有完攀－－如何防止前臂僵硬（zt）

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沒有休息，就沒有完攀－－如何防止前臂僵硬 Rest not, send not -- how to keep the pump at bay From Climbing Magazine by Matt Stanley
Seventy feet up the route and only 20 feet from the top, my forearms are choked and bloated, and the awkward finger slot I'm milking provides little respite. Just then, a merciful soul on the ground points out that I can turn around and sit down on a prominent spike of rock, known to cheeky locals as the "Sodomizer." Sure enough, I'm able to cop a no-hands rest and finish the route.	在路線起攀點上方七十呎，距離頂端只剩20呎，我的前臂僵硬腫脹，而我的手指正擠在一個難以休息的爛點上。那個時候，地面上有人仁慈地指出我可以回到剛才的一個大凸點並坐在上面。這就足以讓我能夠放開雙手休息，並且完攀那條路線。
Sending a sport route at your on-sight or redpoint limit is not just a matter of pulling the crux. How often have you heard a buddy wail, "I sent the crux but fell right before the chains!"? To keep your guns firing, you need to find and utilize the best rests. Here are two key points to remember:	On-sight或red-point一條運動攀登的路線並非只取決於能否通過難點。想想有多常聽到同伴哀號“我通過了那個難關，卻在完攀點之前墜落！”想要讓自己隨時有能力應付接下來的狀況，就需要找出並善用最佳的休息機會。這裡有兩項要點要記住：
Look for unusual resting features. It's easy to think of a good rest as being a jug and two footholds, but on many routes the rests won't be that obvious. It pays to look out for clever body language like wrist, arm, heel, and leg hooks, hip and shoulder scums, knee and arm bars, stems, hand jams, and even sitting positions. More esoteric but useful rests include elbow cups (placing your elbow in a dish of rock and bracing on it), meat hooks (using the fleshy heel of your hand to smear on a small rock feature), and -- wild as it may seem -- facing away from the rock. Engage the creative right side of your brain and look for possible mixes like a leg-hook/toe-hook setup (figure 1), hand-jam/hip-scum fusion, or stem/meat-hook combo.	找出不常見的休息姿態。我們很容易就會想到一個好的休息姿勢是一個大手點加上兩個腳點，但是很多路線上的休息點並非那麼明顯。需要注意找出靈巧的肢體語言，例如用手腕、手臂、腳跟、以及腿去勾，用臀部或肩膀去卡去摩擦，卡膝蓋或手，劈腿似地把腳踢開，甚或使用坐的姿勢。更需要練習卻也是很有用的休息方式包括用手肘撐住（將手肘放在石盤上並撐開），用手掌多肉的部份摩擦小點，以及──看起來似乎很瘋狂──背向岩面。發揮右腦的創意並找出可能的組合，例如一個用腿和腳趾勾住的姿勢（圖1），同時塞手並用臀部推擠，或是結合把腳踢開以及用掌摩擦岩面的方式。

圖1. 完攀和墜落的差別在於找出有創意的休息位置

Figure 1. Finding a creative rest can make the difference between sending and falling.

Strategize your rest. Since on-sighting precludes having any Beta about a route, including where and how to rest, scan the route thoroughly from the ground to spot potential rests. Visualize the body language you might need to use	策略化的休息。既然on-sight沒有任何有關路線的外來資訊，包括可在何處以及如何休息的訊息，就要從地面徹底而準確地仔細察看路線以標出可能的休息點。同時也要想像可能需要用到的肢體語言。
While on-sighting allows little opportunity to truly work out rests, redpoints demand that you be dialed in to all opportunities to de-pump. Don't rely just on the old alternating-hand shakeout; work the rests just as much as the cruxes	因為在on-sight的時候只有很小的機會能真正做出休息動作，redpoint就會要求你掌握所有避免前臂僵硬的機會。別只是依賴老式的交替甩手；遇到的難關越多就越要儘可能找出休息的機會。
If an upcoming crux is going to require more juice from one arm than the other, think about resting unevenly, sacrificing recovery for one appendage in order to rest the crucial limb (figure 2). Determine how much you need to recover at a rest. Does the next section require that you be fully recovered or is it moderate with a good rest above it? Work your brain more and your forearms less.	若在下個難關某一隻手所要耗費的力量比另一隻手多，就可以考慮不均衡的休息，犧牲一隻手的休息機會以期讓另一隻手休息（圖2）。也得決定要在一個休息位置上回復多少力氣。下一段攀登是否需要力氣完全回復？或是在一段難度適中的攀登之後有一個好的休息點？多用點腦，少用點前臂。

圖2. 不均衡的休息能夠成為漂亮突破難關的關鍵

Figure 2. Resting unevenly can be the key to pulling off a crux.

張忠恕、鄭靜紋編譯