[新聞]主繩被快扣完全割斷(國外真實案例,有圖)

雪地狂奔

转载自台湾攀岩资料库 http://www.climbing.org/showthread.php?t=3202
发帖人：阿国 Ed512
新聞來源 http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanek.php?key=6771

-------------大略翻譯--------------------
主繩被損傷的快扣完全割斷

這個意外發生在人工岩場中
沒有人受傷
因為攀登者(80公斤)是墬落在第一個快扣
而主繩被第一個快扣完全割斷
........................................
大致原因
該快扣是鋁製鉤環
又是第一個
會因為take而產生很大的摩擦力
然後摩擦磨損而產生像刀一樣的直角
最後因為攀登者也蠻重的
墜落係數也大而把主繩割斷
.......................................
如何避免
1.時常檢查自己裝備
2.高度注意第一個勾環(如下圖示意)

...................
........................................


-----------------全文----------------------------
Picture 1

Rope cut completely in worn carabiner

Watch out!!!

The safety commission of the Czech Mountaineering Union recently reported an incident which involved a falling climbers rope being cut completely over the edge of a well worn carabiner.


The case happened recently in one of the indoor climbing walls in Prague and thankfully nobody was injured because the fall was just above the first quickdraw and the falling climber landed OK.
The rope was reported as a brand new (two weeks old)from a well known manufacturer.
After the case the report was published and the climbing public was warned of the risk.
The wear on the carabiner was probably because the intensity of the rope friction there is enormous. Logic says that it could impact the last carabiner on the route (which does not catch falls), and according to this new incident the first one as well- where the fall factor is the most critical.

Picture 1

During lowering the rope enters the carabiner in a specific angle and at the upper edge of the carabiner the rope further sharpens the body of the carabiner to a flat surface and a sharp edge is formed: Picture 2 below in the text.

The description of the incident: The fall of the first climber from the first go on protection, the rope was cut through, the climber fell to the ground, luckily without any injury. The length of the fall was 1,6 m. The fall factor 0,57.
The mass of the falling climber was 80 kg. Belayed statically. The rope was single dynamic 11 mm diameter.





Picture 2 and 3





The carabiner long term used on the position of the route first protection.

Picture 4 a 5
The rope cut off in the incident






Picture 6 a 7
Detail of the cut rope






Conclusion: Climbing wall providers should regularly check the carabiners and those showing significant wear in the rope basket should be replaced by new ones. Higher attention should be placed on the first ones on a route or the others which are the first in the direction of the rope (e.g. under overhangs, in the beginning or end of traverses etc.).
In case the visitor of the climbing wall would find any grooved carabiner, he/she should notice the climbing wall provider.

～～ ed512 LDS 建議～～
1.攀岩館或固定式快扣最好換成鐵製或鋼製鉤環
2.不要墜落
3.不要超過80公斤

撒手

我早就觉得，下降或者给攀爬者做保护的时候，最好不要用atc，或者把绳子穿在主锁里，这样会增加对主锁的伤害，看来事实证明我是对的，不知道伙计们还有其他看法没

极度xx

哪里有不磨损的道理，只要是使用器械的运动都存在器械老旧磨损的问题，我们需要的是时刻检查自己的装备。

撒手

但是穿在8字里的话，对主锁来说就没有这回事了啊极度哥哥

逛山

关于锁磨损到什么程度就要淘汰国家登山队友标准的我以前培训的时候学过呵呵不过现在还给老师了！
大家可以查一下网上有！
保护器！各种不同的保护器有不同的保护原理！效果也是不一样的！器械磨损也是正常的！没有永远不磨损的器械！这些东西都要定期更换的！

雪地狂奔

这个帖应该是个特例，在体重很大的人坠落后，因保护人的站位产生了与第一个快挂奇怪的角度才出现了这种情况。丰富的经验经常检查装备是可以避免的！

天尚

我这体重!!!!!!!!!

马戈

除了机械类的下降保护器，8字和管式下降保护器都是通过绳子与器械之间的摩擦力实现保护目的的，8字环用久了也有凹槽，所以器材的正常磨耗是无法避免的，应该养常检查器材的好习惯，不管什么器械，磨耗超过1/3一定要抛弃或人工毁坏，防止他人使用。

金枪鱼

磨耗超过1/3一定要抛弃或人工毁坏，防止他人使用。

记住它！