斜板、岩面、裂隙、煙囪

老雷

平衡攀登技巧(一) 斜板(Slab Climbing)

• Keep your weight directly over your boots
• Maintain the upright posture
• Place your boots deliberately
• Climb fluidly and lightly, not overloading the holds with jerky moves
• Use outside edging only for rest step not for the move
• High stepping is sometimes necessary to maximize the reach

• 讓身體重量平均落於腳上
• 保持直立的姿勢
• 移動腳步穩而準確
• 優美而輕巧的攀登，不要因快速移動而加重支持的力氣
• 於斜板上攀爬，只有休息時才用外側踩法，移動時不用
• 為了搆到較遠的把手點，有時需用High Stepping方式

↓離開岩面保持直立較易攀爬


↓對腳信心不足，身體鼓起更不好爬；相信腳、離開岩面會比較穩。



↓在斜板上，手點、腳點，甚至確保點往往都很小


↓在難度高的斜板上，為了提高腳步，柔軟度就很重要。





↓墊高腳就可以抓到把手點。



岩面(Face Climbing)：岩面攀登分解為以下幾個步驟，可以用來對付難點(crux moves)﹕

• 準備，觀察路線(Relaxed phase)：Chalk if possible; Do not move the foot, which will pops off holds; Do not overcling with handholds.
• 腳移動至下一踏足點，同時手用力(維持平衡)(Crank/Step phase)：High step if possible and precise placement of foot.
• 鎖住(Lock-off phase)：Better getting hips close to the wall; Do not let the foot move on the edge, which will rotate off.
• 手移動至下一把手點(Extension phase)：Do not melt off clinging hands; Free hand must reach for the right handhold; Foot must not blow off.

On near-vertical rock, turnout keeps the body close to the wall, minimizing outward pull on handholds. This is an effective positions typically reduce outward pull on the hands and improve direction of force on handholds by keeping the body close to the rock.
在接近垂直的岩面，移轉身體靠向岩壁，把向外的拉力減到最小，這種典型的姿勢可使手支撐向外的拉力減小，增力往岩壁靠的力氣。
↓腳的位置對於上攀有很大的影嚮；太高，一開始的移動都是靠手拉；太低，抓到下一個把手點之前腳就懸空了。


↓『推』所花的力氣比『拉』小



A錯誤，腳踩太裏面，身體拉太直了。
↓B腳位置太低，身體拉太長了。


↓左錯誤，易失去平衡，且沒辦法用力站起來。



裂隙(Crack Climbing)：裂隙從大到小，尺寸各有不同，都需實地練習。 (Note: It would be wise to tape up well before practicing crack climbing.)

• Narrow cracks: Up to 1½ in --- finger and toe tip jams.
• Medium cracks: 1½ to 4 in --- hand, fist, foot jams.
• Wide cracks: 4 in to body size. Off-width cracks: No part of the body fits well.
• Chimney: Entire body or wider.

　
Pocket Climbing：When using pockets, you can improve two-finger holding power by keeping your index(食指) and pinkie(小指) fingers down with your thumb.
Finger Jam：扭住為最高原則
Two most important rules in jamming：

• Move one limb at a time. Achieve solid jams or locks with three limbs before you move a forth one.
• Never move on a jam you can't hang on. Take time to get jam right, so that you know you can hang on it.

Off-Finger Jam：Around a #1.5-Friend-sized crack for the most.




Thin-Hand Jam：Approximately #2 Friend-sized --- can be the most insecure and also quite strenuous if it's a long section.
Hand Jam：Thumbs down and apply torque. The #2.5 to #3 Friend-sized cracks are the most secure and enjoyable to climb; slightly larger hand cracks, #3.5 Friend-sized, require a more strenuous cup than the standard hand jam.






Fist Jam：Fist crack run about the size of a #4 Friend for most.





Off-Width Jam：These are cracks into which you can jam your whole arm and perform armbar. Armbar involves levering your arm in the crack by pushing your hand against one side of the crack while the elbow pushes against the other




Foot Jam
↓A正確，B錯誤，會失去平衡



↓A：塞入岩縫。B：腳尖及腳跟擠塞




↓A：塞入岩縫，腳趾塞入裂縫，扭轉腳。B：摩擦岩角，腳跟比腳尖低，向下施力



煙囪(Chimney Climbing)
利用反向力上攀

老雷

花了很长时间才转过来的！ 大家认真学习啊！

KID_P

不错，但是要注明转帖。

清风

好贴

我是罗讷

专业啊。

冷月寒潭

去实践一下吧

极度xx

没见过这么好的裂缝和烟囱呢。

lifefire

好东西，就是字体颜色看的费劲啊！