Dying to Climb 搏命攀岩：经验不在你的经歷，经验在於你对经歷的处理方式(ZT)

逛山

这篇文章跟生命有关，希望您能够认真阅读：
As Aldous Huxley said “Experience is not what happens to you. Experience is what you do with what happens to you”.
Aldous Huxley说＂经验不在你的经歷，经验在於你对经歷的处理方式＂

天尚

我也收藏了
慢慢 学习

逛山

Mistake number 1中的鉤环实际上是咱们所说的主锁的意思
耳片是咱们所谁的挂片！

[ 本帖最后由 逛山 于 2008-10-31 16:19 编辑 ]

KID_P

我先收藏了再说！

老雷

认真看完了！  应该反复的来看  建议将此贴顶置！！

逛山

Mistake number 6 – Belay failure
缺失六、确保失败

Injury Potential – High if the whole belay disintegrates
Likelihood – Only quick reflexes and brute force prevent it happening more often
Avoidance – Follow the advice given below
Locking or open gate krabs?
潜在危险 - 高，如果整个确保瓦解
发生频率 - 只有反应快和蛮力能避免更常发生
避免方式 - 跟著下面的建议做

I remember watching a very famous climber disappear over the cliff edge when his second fell off... Luckily he is still around today. I watched a second on a multi pitch climb drop his leader a long way and end up in pool of blood as he was lifted into a cave roof. I have also been an expert witness at a tragic accident when a belay failed. All could be avoided with some simple rope work.
我记得看过一个有名的攀岩者在第二攀登者跌落后从峭壁边缘消失...幸运地他今天还在。我看过第二攀登者在多绳距攀登时离他的先锋者很远一段距离，最后躺在血泊中，头撞到洞顶。我也一直是确保失败这种悲惨意外发生时的作证专家。而只要用绳子做一些简单的工作就可以避免所有事情。

When constructing a belay consider the following things:
确保时仔细想想以下事情：

SOLID ANCHORS
坚固的固定点

Search widely, do not accept the first anchors found, unless they are good of course. Do not use micro wires or SLCD’s unless you have to and only use fixed gear as a last resort. Two anchors are normally a minimum.
广泛蒐寻，别接上第一批找到的固定点，当然除非牠们很好。没必要别使用微导线(micro wires)或伸缩式轮轴保护器(SLCD)，只能使用固定装备做為最后一招。一般最少要两个固定点。

EQUALIZE ANCHORS
使固定点平均受力

The phrase ‘back up anchors’ is confusing because the belay comprises of all the anchors together not one backed up by the others. Ideally, if part of the belay fails then the remainder of the anchors take the load with no movement of the climber during a fall.
”支援固定点”这个词很混淆，因為确保是由所有固定点一起组成，没有哪个固定点有其他的固定点做支援。理想中，若部分确保失效，剩下的固定点承受重量，而攀爬者坠落时就无法动作。

INDEPENDENT ANCHORS
独立固定点

Two smaller nuts placed in the same crack, but used as individual anchors are in effect a single anchor point because if the crack expands both come out. Whenever possible place anchors in separate sections of the cliff.
两个小的nuts放在同一裂缝，做两个个别的固定点，而实际上却是单一的固定点，因為裂缝一扩大两个固定点就会脱出，无论何时，固定点分开放置峭壁不同区。

TIGHT ROPE
紧绷的绳子

Keep the ropes taut between you and the anchors. This will prevent the belayer disappearing over the edge. Be careful using anchors a long way back because rope stretch may deposit the belayer over the cliff edge.
拉紧你跟确保者之间的绳子，这样可以防止确保者在边缘消失，小心使用固定点，确保离的有点远时，绳子延伸之后可能确保者会跑回峭壁边缘。

STAND or SIT?
站或坐？

When the anchors are low down, a standing belayer can be pulled to their knees and could even let go of the rope. Sit down when the anchors are below shoulder height. The disadvantage of sitting is that it is difficult to give assistance to a struggling second without your leg muscles.
当固定点很低，确保者站著可能会被拉走膝盖著地，甚至绳子会滑掉。当固定点在肩膀下面就坐下来，坐著的缺点是很难用你的脚部肌肉去帮助挣扎的第二攀登者。

COMMUNICATION
沟通

Communicating with the second is easier when they are visible.
看得见第二攀登者时沟通是较容易的。

DIRECTION of FORCES
受力方向

Consider which way a fall will pull the belayer and equalize the anchors such that a fall does not pull the belayer sideways or upwards.
思考一下坠落时怎样会拉走确保者，怎样让固定点平均受力，这样坠落就不会把确保者往旁边拉或网上啦。

WHAT IF
假设状况

Finally, ask: “What happens if the second or leader falls?” If the answer is nothing then the belay is good, if the answer is anything else then look again at the belay.
最后问一问：＂如果第二攀登者或先锋者坠落会发生什麼事？＂如果答案是没有什麼事情发生，那麼就是好的确保，如果答案是别的，再度检查确保。Locking or open gate krabs?
带锁鉤环或不带锁鉤环?

Few European climbers use locking krabs on belays, but in the UK, there is an almost paranoid reaction to using open gate krabs. Many climbing instructors use locking krabs when working and open gate krabs when playing. Why?
几乎没有欧洲攀岩者确保时会使用带锁鉤环，但在美国，使用不带锁鉤环就会引起很偏激的反应。很多攀岩老师工作时使用带锁鉤环，出去玩用不带锁鉤环，為什麼这样？

This is a judgement call but consider the following before deciding what to do:
这是主观判断，但想想下面情况再决定做什麼：

•If the consequence of the rope coming out of the krab would be catastrophic, a screw gate krab must be used; e.g. all attachments to the harness or single anchor points.
•如果绳子脱出鉤环的下场很悽惨，一定要用带锁鉤环；例如所有连接座带的东西或是单一固定点。

•The chance of the rope coming out of the krab on anchor placements is small unless you decide to do an Irish jig on the stance, especially when using a clove hitch that is pulled tight.
•在放固定点的地方，绳子脱出鉤环的机会很小，除非你决定要在那个位置做Irish jig，尤其是使用拉紧的双套结的时候。

That said, screw gates are advisable on all top and bottom rope belays because the constant movement of the system could conceivably cause the rope to come out of an open gate krab.
就是说，带锁鉤环适用於上方确保和下方确保，因為系统持续的动作相信会造成绳子脱出不带锁的鉤环。

逛山

Mistake number 8 – Lowering from a sport climb
缺失八 - 运动攀登下降

Injury Potential – Death potential very high
Likelihood – It happens more often than it should
Avoidance – Don’t fall into the trap of thinking that sport climbing is safe
潜在危险 - 死亡可能性很高
发生频率 - 比应该发生的频率还多很多
避免方式 - 别误认為运动攀登是安全

Sport climbs are the ultimate convenience climbs; pre-placed bolts and a point at the top of the climb to lower off from, means that all you require to climb them are some quick draws, a rope and a trusty belayer. However, this simplicity can lead to complacency and fool people into thinking that sport climbing is safe – especially those ‘trad’ climbers going on a winter sport-climbing trip for the first time.
运动攀登是最早的方便的攀登; 事先放置的耳片和攀登顶端做撤退的确保站，表示攀岩需要的是一些快扣，一条主绳和值得信任的确保者。然而，这种简单造成自满且骗人以為运动攀登是安全的 - 尤其是第一次参加冬季运动攀登旅行的传统攀登者会这样认為。

Lowering off
先锋撤退

The vast majority of sports climbs have a ‘lower off’ point at the top, which may consist of two bolts and possibly a linking chain or sling.
大多数的运动攀登上方都有个先锋撤退的确保站，确保站由两个耳片，可能还有一条连接绳或扁带所组成。

How to stay alive!
如何活著！

•The first thing to do, before climbing, is to make sure that there is enough rope to lower back down. If in doubt tie a knot in the spare end or even tie the belayer into the rope. However, if you do make a mistake and there is not enough rope to lower down tie another rope to it and bypass the resulting knot by placing a second belay device (still on the original belayer’s harness) onto the rope below the knot. This is easier if there is a third person to help or the lead climber can take their weight off the rope. Alternatively drop from bolt to bolt until there is enough rope to lower off!
•攀登前要做的第一件事是确定有足够的绳子可以下降。若有存疑在绳尾绑个结，甚至让确保者绑著绳子。但是你真的犯错没有足够绳子下降，绑上另外一条绳子，绕过產生的结，从结的下面绳子装上第二个确保器（依然在原本确保者的座带上）。如果有第三个人帮忙或先峰攀登者可以不把体重放在绳子上这样会更简单。也可以从一个又一个耳片下降，直到有足够的绳子可以做先锋撤退。

•If you do find yourself on a route that is too long to lower off, the easiest way is to pull a spare rope up and abseil off.
•如果你发现所在的路线太长没办法做先锋撤退，最简单的方式就是拉一条备用的绳子并垂降。

•Communication is vital! Do not remove a climber from the belay device until you are absolutely sure they want you to... Don’t assume anything. Too many sport climbers have leaned back to be lowered only to find that they are not being belayed, with disastrous results.
•沟通非常重要！不要把攀登者从确保器移掉直到你完全确定他们要你做... 别预设任何事情，太多运动攀登者躺下来要下降，发现他们没有被确保住，下场很悲惨.
•UK sports climbs are often not as well prepared as continental ones so don’t expect bolts every few feet and lower offs that consist of two bolts and a chain. If the lower off is a sling do not, under any circumstances, lower from the sling itself, add a krab.
•不像欧洲运动攀登，美国运动攀登常常没有好好準备，所以不要预期每几呎就有耳片，和两个耳片及一条绳子的确保站。如果确保站是一条扁带任何情况都不要从扁带下降，加个鉤环再说。

The following procedure will ensure that you lower off safely:
下面步骤确认你安全的先锋撤退：

Step 1: Clip yourself from the abseil loop to the bolts using two quick draws
第一步：用两根快扣把自己从垂降圈掛进耳片。
Step 2: Pull up two metres of rope, tie a Figure of Eight knot and clip it into your belay loop using a screw gate krab.
第二步：拉出两公尺绳子，绑个八字结，用有锁鉤环掛进确保环。
Step 3: Untie from the end of the rope and thread the end of the rope through the bolts or single lower point.
第三步：解开绳端的结，绳子穿过耳片或较低的单一点。
Step 4: Tie in again.
第四步：再绑进去。
Step 5: Untie the Figure of Eight knot from the rope.
第五步：从绳端解开八字结。
Step 6: Take the tension on the rope checking everything is correct.
第六步：绳子收紧，检查每个东西都是正确的。
Step 7: Remove the quick draws and lower down.
第七步：收回快扣下降。

If the climb is so steep that you cannot retrieve the quick draws, clip a krab or quick draw from your harness to the climbing rope to keep you into the cliff. Be careful removing the last one because you could take your belayer with you as you swing out. To make life easier, at the last bolt the belayer should stand as close to the cliff as possible.
如果攀爬路线很陡，取不到快扣，座带和绳子之间掛个鉤环或快扣，你就可以靠近峭壁，取最后一个快扣要小心，因為你盪出去可能会把确保者也带出去。最简单的方式是，最后一个耳片时，确保者要儘量靠著峭壁站。

Falling off and getting back to the rock
掉下来并回到岩块

Although this doesn’t really fit into the ‘Dying to Climb’ remit it may help a few people to overcome a problem. Sport climbing means that you can push yourself close to your technical limits in relative safety. This means that you are more likely to fall off. If the leader falls off and can reach the rope running to the belayer, they can pull down on it and pulley themselves back to their high point as the belayer takes in the slack rope. If the leader is hanging in space, the leader can use a technique called ‘snapping’. It is a strenuous technique where the leader pulls up on their rope and then lets go as the belayer simultaneously takes in (which does require good teamwork). The most effective method of doing this is for the belayer to sit on the rope, and then as the climber releases the rope he sits further down, takes in and repeats.
虽然这不符合＂搏命攀岩＂的主题，却可以帮一些人克服问题。运动攀登表示你可以在相对安全的状况下把自己的技术推到极限，如果先锋攀登者掉下来，可以碰到确保者的绳子，就可以用绳子拉下去，滑回高处，此时确保者收紧鬆鬆的绳子。如果先锋者吊在半空中，可以使用一种技巧叫做＂snapping＂。这个技巧很紧张，先锋者把绳子往上拉又放下，确保者同时间要收绳（需要好的团队默契）。最有效率的方式是确保者坐在绳子上，攀爬者一放绳，他坐的更下面，收绳，再重复一遍。

逛山

Pegs
Pegs
With the advent of modern protection, there is a limited need for pegs, but this has meant that the art of placing them and assessing their security is disappearing.
现代保护点的出现，限制了对pegs的需求，这表示放置pegs和评价pegs安全的技术渐渐消失。


•Do not force the peg to fit the crack, choose one that fits the crack. A perfectly placed peg should slide one third of the way in before hammering and should go all the way up to the eye when hammered. A well-placed peg has a rising ringing sound as you hammer it further into the crack. A dull ‘cluncking’ sound usually means poor rock or a marginal placement where the peg is not in contact with the rock. Angle pegs however can be overdriven spreading the sides and reducing the holding power.
•不要强把peg塞进裂缝，挑个适合那个裂缝的peg。放置完美的peg敲鎚子前应该滑进三分之ㄧ，鎚的时候完全由眼睛决定。当你把peg鎚进裂缝鎚得更进去时，放好的peg会有一个上扬的响声。而钝钝的cluncking声音通常表示岩块不好，或敲到边缘而peg没有跟岩块接触。有角度的peg可能敲过头，旁边展开而降低抓力。
•If it has not been possible to hammer the peg all the way in because the crack is shallow stop hammering when it has bottomed out to avoid loosening the peg. Then tie it off using a slipknot, lark’s foot or clove hitch on a sling (do not use bulky rope or cord), the best is Dyneema/Spectra. The clove hitch will not come off the peg but it does not put the load close to the rock, so use it when security is the priority not reducing leverage. The slipknot comes undone but puts the load closest to the rock so use it on poorly placed pegs. Stacking pegs is described in chapter eight aid climbing.
•若是因為缝隙很浅不可能把peg完全敲进去，到底就停止鎚打以免弄鬆peg。然后在扁带上用滑结(slipknot)、lark's foot或双套结(clove hitch)绑紧（别用笨重的绳子或细绳），最好是Dyneema/Spectra纤维。双套结不会脱出peg但重量负担没靠近岩块，安全优先非减轻力量优先时就使用双套结。滑结会鬆开但是重量负担最靠近岩块，pegs没放好就用滑结。堆叠的pegs第八章救援攀登会提到。
Without a hammer it is difficult to test a fixed peg but a reasonable test is to loosely hold a krab in two fingers and tap it on the peg, the sound it makes will indicate whether it is safe.
没有鎚子很难测试钉好的peg，但有一个合理的测试方式，用两隻指头鬆鬆地拿著鉤环，在peg上轻拍，发出的声音会指出安全与否。

逛山

How and when to place protection
架设固定点的方式和时机

There are a number of reasons for placing protection:
架设固定点有几个原因：

•To reduce the length of a fall due to fatigue, loose rock or a slip.
减少疲惫时、岩块鬆垮时或失足时坠落的长度。
•you may place protection to aid a second or to help them follow the route.
可以架设固定点协助第二个人或是让他们跟著路线。
•To reduce the fall factor.
為了减少坠落的因素。
•To add friction to the system.
為了增加系统的摩擦力。
•To protect the rope from sharp edges or loose rock.
為了保护绳子避开尖锐的岩角或鬆垮的石块。

General points to consider
注意事项

•Identify possible placements before leaving the ground. Keep vital protection for the crux.
离开地面前先辨认可能的固定点，关键时刻放置重要的固定点。
•Down climb if necessary to retrieve protection that may be needed higher up.
如果要爬更高才有固定点，就先下攀放个固定点。
•Do not focus on looking above your head also look sideways and downward.
别老是注意头上，也要看看旁边和下面。
•It is much easier to place protection at rest places, so do not wait until you need protection.
休息时放固定点会简单的多，别等到你需要固定点的时候。
•lace protection before and after the hard moves especially on traverses.
通过困难点的前后放置固定点，特别在横渡时。
•Consider the consequences of a fall. Are there any ledges for you to hit? What happens if the top piece of protection comes out?
仔细想想坠落的结果。有没有突出的岩块你会去撞到？如果最上面的固定点脱出会怎样？
•Do not rely on a single piece of gear on sea cliffs unless it is perfect.
在海边悬崖别依赖单一装备除非它很完美。
•lace a good nut instead of a cam. Be suspicious of all fixed slings, stakes, pegs and bolts.
放一个好的岩石塞(nut)别放岩械(cam)。对所有固定的扁带绳(slings)、桩(stakes)、棒(pegs)和耳片保持怀疑态度。
•lace/clip gear at waist level on sport climbs. This will help prevent you becoming pumped. You are also are less likely to fall with a mouth full of slack.
运动攀登时在腰部位置放置装备或掛上装备。这会预防你喷出，也比较不可能坠落还绳子鬆得让你嘴巴大张。
•With small nuts the force generated by a fall is transmitted to a smaller area of rock, increasing the chances of the rock breaking. Place the largest nut that fits properly and make sure that the maximum surface area is in contact with the rock.
用小的岩石塞(nut)，坠落產生的衝击会传到石块小部份区域，增加石块断裂的机会。放置大小适当的最大的螺帽，确认最大的表面跟石块接触。

逛山

错误四 - 扁带绳脱出
Injury Potential – varies from embarrassment to death or serious injury
Likelihood – often
Avoidance – not easy, a lot to learn, but with experience the chance of embarrassment becoming death is vastly reduced
潜在危险 - 从困窘到死亡或重伤
发生频率 - 经常
避免方式 - 不简单，很多要学，靠著经验可让困窘变成死亡的机会大幅减少


My record is fifty feet, ripping out six runners and landing on the shoulder of my belayer on the stretch of the rope, he subsequently gave up climbing, other climbers have not been so lucky. This is the nub of trad climbing and is what makes it so rewarding.
我的纪录是五十呎，解下六条扁带绳，在我的确保者肩上落地，他接著放弃不爬，别人可没那麼幸运，这是传统攀登的重点也是让它如此值得的地方。
•Choose sound rock - There is seldom a perfect placement and choosing sound rock is not as easy as it first appears especially when leading a climb.
•选择稳固的岩块 - 要先峰攀登时，很难有完美的放置点，而挑选稳定的岩块不像第一次看起来那样简单。
•Scan the rock, look for cracks that create a loose area.
•快速看过岩块，寻找岩质较鬆有裂缝的地方。
•lace one hand on the rock and bang it with the palm of the other hand. If vibration is felt try to kick or pull the rock.
•一隻手放在岩块上，用另一隻手的掌心撞它，若感觉振动，试著踢一踢或拉一拉石头。
•When pulling be careful that it does not suddenly come out and disappear over the cliff edge with you hanging on to it.
•掛在峭壁边缘的岩块上时，拉岩块要注意它会不会突然掉出来或不见。
•Look for soft rock and crystals inside cracks that could wedge a runner but snap easily in a fall Sea cliff limestone and slate provide the least reliable of all runner placements, because the rock has a thin, easily crushed, weathered layer. Granite is a harder substance and provides placements that are generally more reliable.
•看看裂缝裡面有没有软的岩块和水晶，坠落时这些会让扁带绳卡住并容易拉断。在海边峭壁的石灰岩和板岩上绑扁带绳最不可靠，因為岩块有一层薄薄的容易击碎的风化表面。花岗岩则是更為坚固的物质，放置上面一般而言更為可靠。
•Worry about the quality of the rock not the strength of the equipment.
•担心岩块的质地不要担心装备的强度。
•Do not blindly trust well-worn runner placements they may not be as good as wear and tear suggests.
•别盲目信任磨损的扁带绳，它们可能不像建议的那麼耐磨。
•lace protection deep into the crack because the rock is more likely to break on the outside of the crack. However take care not to embed them so deeply that they cannot be retrieved.
•固定点要放进裂缝深处，因為岩块可能在裂缝外面破裂。不过注意别放太深而收不回来。