(冬天了,翻译篇热身小贴士 by F1)
原著:Chris Weidner
热身运动是每个运动方案的重要部分。这不只是训练或比赛前身体和精神的准备,也是伤害预防的关键。以下六个步骤会在寒冷中让你的身体对一天的攀爬计划做好准备。
(每一步的时间建议都是粗略的估计。应根据你的体能做相应增减)。
1) 从轻度有氧练习开始。(15 分钟)。
提升心率让身体为更剧烈的运动做好准备。如果你背着抱石垫或背包徒步到岩场,通常就能达到目的。但如果你驱车到达,有几种方法可以让你的血液流动起来:
-绕岩壁周围散步。
-在场地内慢跑。
-做3组头顶击掌跳,每组25个。
2) 活动上身。(5 分钟)。
有氧练习活动了你的双腿,是时候活动上半身,让肌肉放松了。做下列关节活动(ROM) 练习,每组动作15次:
-柔和地向两边拉伸脖子,然后同样向前低头向后仰脖。
-旋转肩膀向前作圆周运动。
-旋转肩膀向后作圆周运动。
-把手臂平展平行于地面。现在轻轻地划小圆圈并逐渐使圈更大。同样在两个方向上做这个运动。
-在两个方向旋转手腕。
3) 用弹力带(Theraband)做低抗度关节活动(ROM) 。(5 分钟)。
(* 如果你没有 Theraband 可以用辅绳或扁带)。
可以做很多种练习,但我没有做以下这个练习永远不会开始攀爬:
-抓住Theraband 手臂向前伸出比肩宽;平行于地面。保持 Theraband 绷紧的同时慢慢地抬高您的手臂,经过你头顶,背后;到达你的臀部。然后反过来慢慢回到起始位置。如有必要可以抓宽一点,或弯曲你的胳膊,使整个运动更舒适。重复几次。
4) 简单的攀爬。(10 分钟)。
是时候让身体通过攀爬进一步提高心率了。通过非常简单的抱石或线路攀爬累计33米。现在让前臂充血还为时过早,所以要一定要简单。快速的前臂充血会明显的让你当天的表现大打折扣。把注意力放在正确的技术上:精确的脚法和完美的身体动作。这同样也可以让你的大脑热身,为一天的攀爬建立信心。
5) 轻度拉伸。(5 分钟)。
做多少量的预拉伸练习是个人的选择。即使在专家当中意见也有很大差异。我更愿意在我整个攀爬期间(包括之前、期间和之后)做总共至少 15 分钟的拉伸。
热身时我每个胳膊做以下三个拉伸动作:
-前臂内侧。伸出一条手臂与地面平行。用另一只手轻轻地拉回伸出的手,然后按住 10 秒钟。
-前臂外侧。起始动作如前,用另一只手的手掌握住并柔和的向前弯曲手腕。
-手指。前臂内侧相同,只是轻轻地扳回你的每个手指。每个手指按住 10 秒钟。
6) 逐渐提高攀爬的难度(20 分钟)。
-最后阶段热身是非常重要的,但攀岩者之间会有很大的不同。如果可能,在和你计划尝试的目标类似,但要简单点的线路上热身。应难度渐进地攀爬至少3条抱石线路或2条攀登线路,使你在热身的最后阶段前臂充血。
-如果附近没有良好的热身线路,通常可以在你的目标路线上热身。每次一个动作或一个挂片距离。这样可以让身体对持续的困难移动做好准备,同时可以熟悉每个支点准确的大小、形状,和纹理。
现在,您已经热身了。
请记住 — — 你比任何人更了解你的身体。多做尝试找到最适合您的热身程序。
原文:
Warming up is an essential part of every athlete’s regimen. Not only does it prepare the body and mind for performance, it’s also crucial for injury prevention. The following six steps will get you ready to send your project in the cold.
(Time suggestions per step are a rough guideline. Listen to your body, and add or subtract time accordingly). 1) Begin with light cardio. (15 mins.)
An elevated heart rate prepares the body for more vigorous exercise. An average approach with a pad or pack usually does the trick. But if you’re climbing roadside, there are several ways to get the blood flowing:
- Take an easy walk around the cliff.
- Jog in place.
- Do 3 sets of 25 jumping jacks. 2) Upper body mobility. (5 mins.)
The cardio worked the legs. Now it’s time to warm up the upper body so the muscles feel loose and relaxed. Do 15 reps of each of the following range of motion (ROM) exercises:
- Roll head gently from side to side, then forward and backward.
- Rotate shoulders forward in a circular motion.
- Rotate shoulders backward the same way.
- Extend your arms at your side so they’re parallel to the ground. Now gently rotate them from the shoulder (elbows straight) in small circles, gradually making the circles larger. Do this in both directions.
- Rotate wrists in both directions.
3) Light resistance ROM exercises with a Theraband. (5 mins.)
(*Use a rope or webbing if you don’t have a Theraband).
Many exercises can be done, but I never leave the ground without doing at least this one:
- Hold a Theraband parallel to the ground with arms outstretched in front of you, slightly more than shoulder-width apart. Keep the Theraband taut while slowly raising your arms above your head and behind your back, all the way down to your butt. Now, bring your arms slowly back overhead to the starting position. If necessary, widen your grip on the Theraband and/or bend your elbows so the entire motion is comfortable. Repeat several times.
4) Very easy climbing. (10 mins.)
Time to elevate the heart rate one more time while warming up your whole body to climbing movement. Climb at least 100 feet of very easy terrain (bouldering or roped). It’s too early for pumped forearms, so keep it easy. Getting pumped immediately – a “flash pump” – will significantly compromise your performance for the rest of the day. Focus on proper technique, accurate foot placement, and perfect body position. This warms up your mind as well, building confidence for the day. 5) Light stretching. (5 mins.)
The optimum amount of pre-workout stretching is a personal choice. Opinions vary widely, even among experts. I prefer to stretch periodically before, during, and after my workout for a total of at least 15 minutes.
While warming up I do the following three stretches for each arm:
- Front of forearm. Raise one arm in front of your body and parallel to the ground. With the other hand, gently pull back on the outstretched hand and hold for 10 seconds.
- Back of forearm. With one arm in the same starting position as above, curl the outstretched hand into the palm of the other hand, gently folding the wrist forward.
- Fingers. Do the same stretch as per the front of forearm, only gently pull each finger back toward your body. Hold each finger for 10 seconds. 6) Increasingly difficult climbing. (20 mins.)
- The final stage of warming up is very important, but will differ greatly between climbers. If possible, warm up on the type of climb you plan to attempt, only easier. Do at least three boulder problems or two routes of increasing difficulty, allowing yourself to get pumped by the final moves of your warm-up.
- If no good warm-ups exist nearby, it’s often possible to warm up on your project by climbing one move, or one bolt, at a time. This prepares the body for continuously difficult movement while getting reacquainted with the exact size, shape, and texture of each hold. Now that you’re warmed up, keep in mind these ten tips to stay warm on those cold winter days. And remember – you know your body better than anyone. Experiment with different warm-up routines to learn what works best for you. |