运用基本的“三角平衡”行进

清风

运用基本的“三角平衡”行进
译者： 华仔
译者注：（原文发表于http://www.grivel.com/，译者尽可能如实的翻译原文，本文仅供参考。如需转载，请全文转载并注明原出处，以便大家更好的理解本文！这是国外高山向导教材的第六部分第二节，整个文章我将陆续译出上传，译得不太妥的地方请大家提出来。）


AREA :
Short length of rope approx. 75/80° on top rope.

DESCRIPTION :
From the basic balanced position of the triangle (fig.85),



lower the hips and hang the chest from the highest arm (principal arm), lift the feet using three short steps the first in a plumb line under the highest axe, move up on each leg so that it is straight until one is again in a new triangle position, the face at the height of the head of the axe.
Make these moves fluidly always placing the hips over the weighted foot. Do not interrupt the sequence until one has come back to the basic balanced position (fig.86 to 89).


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Only now at this moment, remove the lower tool and place it higher and a bit to the side of the other tool (fig.90).
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Take two steps sideways in order to come back to the original position of the basic triangle (fig.91 to 93).


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范围：
75/80度的顶绳，短绳距
描述：
从一个稳定的三角平衡点开始（图85），降低臀部重心，用最高点的胳膊把人挂住（受力臂），采用三碎步法抬脚，第一步
一定是在最高的镐的铅垂线上，直接向上抬腿直到新的三角平衡点，朝着镐头的高度。
动胯的动作要一气哈成，不要乱了次序，直到你又回到一个新的平衡（图86-89）
只有在这时刻，你才能把较低的冰镐移动到较高的位置，但不要离另一支冰镐太远距离（图90），向边上走两步为了回到原来的三角平衡点（图91-93）。
ERRORS :
Moving the feet without having correctly centered oneself.

CORRECTION :
If the hips are not moved sufficiently, increase the size of the rocking of the hips by exaggerating the moves.
The first step is not centered or too long, which results in a jerky move and excessive pulling on the axe.
The second tool is placed at the same height as the first.

REASON :
The feet are not high enough. The axe is not placed in a position which allows one to use the full extension of the arm.

CORRECTION :
After the first step which should be short and allows one to start without using too much energy, take bigger second and third steps. The swinging movement from the arm should be done with the arm almost extended.
The axe is placed by hyper extending which doesn't allow one to verify the placement. This position does not allow one to remove the axe, the body is stuck against the wall and already pulling on the tool.
The tools are placed too far apart (fig.94) or in the same vertical axis (fig.95).


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错误：
.移动脚的时候没有使自已的重心在三角范围内。
纠正：
如果臀部动的不够充分，可以把摆胯的动作做的夸张一点。
.第一是移步没有居中或者做的过了头,结果会是一个急动和过份的拉镐。
.第二是后来的劈镐的高度和原来的是一样的。
思考：
双脚的高度不够，镐不能劈到在胳膊充分伸展的情况下能够到达的位置。
改正：
第一步不能发力，要小一点，第二步和第三步可以大点。这样劈镐的动作可以做的很舒展。
.如果镐劈的太过(胳膊伸的太长)那么你不能去检验你的位置对不对,在这个点上你又不能移动镐,这时候你就被定在壁上了,只能够继续拉着镐.
.镐点下的太远(图94)和两个镐在同一垂直线上(图95)
In each case progressing will be perturbed both in smoothness and balance.
For other general errors see the errors of exercise # 1 - level 5
Favorable note for progression using the basic triangle :
At first insight this technique can seem more difficult to use, and above all more tiring physically (pulling on only one tool instead of two). However it should be considered that the main reason for fatigue comes mainly from the number of placements and from removing the tools. With the triangle technique the number of swings is cut in half. Additionally, from a safety point of view, having the tools placed at different heights doesn't have the same pullout effect on the ice, thus avoiding the danger of having ice plates break off, which in certain cases can sheer off and cause the climber to fall.
每一种情况都会使你的动作的流畅和平衡大打折扣.
其它的一般性错误参见练习错误# 1 - level 5
运用基本的三角平衡来行进要提倡:
刚开始这个技术看起来运用很难,主要是太容易使人累了(因为是拉着一支镐而不是原来的两支).
不管怎样,移动和下镐点的数量使人疲劳的主要原因要关注.
运用三角技术挥镐的数量可以减掉一半,另外,把镐从一个可见的安全点同时放到不是同一高度且冰面承受着不同的拉力,可以避免冰面跨掉的危险,而这个危险可能导致你的偏向而引起滑坠.

[ 本帖最后由 清风 于 2009-2-8 02:11 编辑 ]

清风

4。递减使用三角平衡。
译者： 华仔
译者注：（原文发表于http://www.grivel.com/，译者尽可能如实的翻译原文，本文仅供参考。如需转载，请全文转载并注明原出处，以便大家更好的理解本文！这是国外高山向导教材的第六部分第4节，整个文章我将陆续译出上传，译得不太妥的地方请大家提出来。）
AREA :
Small ice wall three or four meters high approx. 70/75°.

DESCRIPTION :
From the basic position place the tool that is not used for balance, at shoulder height. Take two horizontal steps and position oneself in a triangle and lock off on the tool that was just placed. Remove the higher tool and replace it at the same height as the other tool but not as deep since it is only used for balance (an intermediate placement) when descending the feet. Take three steps down in order to return to the starting balanced position of the triangle. Repeat the sequence by placing the tool that was placed as an intermediate anchor.

ERROR :
When the tools are at the same height adopting a basic position (balanced on four points of support) without respecting the characteristics of the triangle position.
范围：
约三到四米高的小冰壁，70/75度
描述：
从一个齐肩高的，不是很习惯的一个基本点开始锚定冰镐。采用两步横移，用三角关系稳定好自已，锁定刚放置好的冰镐。
移动较高的冰镐把它放在跟另一根冰镐同样高但不要太深，因此，当脚点距离缩短的同时，它只是用来平衡（一个中间的位置）。向下三步为了回到开始的三角平衡点。重复挥镐劈冰，把已安放好的冰镐作为一个中间锚点。
错误：
在基本点的时候两只冰镐一样高（四点平衡）而没有注意典型的三点平衡。

逛山

看了这个文章后！吧自己攀冰的动作做了一下总结！有些地方提高了理论认识！但有些地方还是需要多加练习！期待下一个冰季的到来吧！

KID_P

自己得好好体会呢。学习了。