用发展了的三角平衡行进

清风

用发展了的三角平衡行进
译者： 华仔
译者注：（原文发表于http://www.grivel.com/，译者尽可能如实的翻译原文，本文仅供参考。如需转载，请全文转载并注明原出处，以便大家更好的理解本文！这是国外高山向导教材的第六部分第三节，整个文章我将陆续译出上传，译得不太妥的地方请大家提出来。）

AREA :
Short length of rope approx. 75/80° on top rope.

DESCRIPTION :
Start from the position of the triangle with he axe placed at face height. From this position, place the other axe higher and to the side in regards to the first one. Lift up the feet by taking steps (the first foot moved should be the one opposite the side of the highest tool), returning thereafter to the starting position (fig.96 to 101).
Using this type of progression one does not return to the basic balanced position, (in a triangle) arm extended.
As seen before in the proceeding exercises, moving the lower limbs should be proceeded by displacing the hips, and followed with as much smoothness as possible. Using this method, even very steep pitches can be climbed quickly and without excessive fatigue. The traditional method (axes at the same height) requires a greater number of swings and a greater physical demand.

VARIATION :
When it is difficult to position one's feet in a triangle, it is interesting to use the corresponding foot and principal hand (higher) only for balance. In this case the final position is not actually the out of balance triangle so to speak, because the effective weight supporting parts are numbered of two : the highest arm and the opposite leg, the other leg is used only for balance.
The center of gravity is obtained by the weight supporting foot (placed crampon) and balance is obtained by the axis between the arm, hips and leg (fig.102 to 106).

范围：
75/80度的顶绳，短绳距
描述：
一个三角平衡点的镐有一个工作面范围，从这个点开始，在边上比第一根镐稍高的点劈另一根镐，设法提高脚点（第一只脚的移动要是最高的那根镐的相对方向），然后再回到一个开始点（图96-101）

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和前面的行进练习一样，下肢的移动也是靠臀部的移动来进行，过程一样尽量要流畅。运用这种方法，步距连贯且大，攀爬迅速且不会过劳。传统的方法（镐在同一高度）需要更多的劈冰次数和体力。


变化：
当在一个三角平衡中很难放置脚点的时候，用相应的脚和挂住身体的那个胳膊来维持平衡是非常有趣的。因为这样子说来最后的点实际上不是三角平衡的，因为有效的重量被两个点分担。最高的手点和支撑的那条腿，另一条腿实际上只是起平衡作用。
重心是靠（带冰爪）的脚来获取，平衡是靠胳膊，臀部和腿来获得（图102-106）


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[ 本帖最后由 清风 于 2009-2-8 02:15 编辑 ]

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