zt【攀登】延缓手臂的酸胀

逛山

Tech Tip - Sport - Slowing the pump clock

延缓手臂的酸胀

By Eric J. Horst

作者: EricJ. Horst

Illustration by Mike Clelland

   

插图: Mike Clelland

“G-Toxing” helps you keep your power.

Slowing the pump clock: three strategies to prevent the pump

  

延缓酸胀：三条策略防止充血

Training to get stronger is a good thing.Climbing in ways that conserve energy and enable rapid recovery is a smart thing!

通过练习来变得更强壮是很有益处的。然而寻求省力并且能够迅速恢复体力的攀登方式则很明智。
While both of these strategies will improve your climbing performance, too many climbers obsess about getting stronger, while not recognizing the value of optimizing their use of strength and accelerating their recovery. It’s a fact that all the best climbers are strong — yet not every strong climber rises to the top. The difference often lies in the subtleties: economy of movement, preventing the pump, and maximizing recovery while climbing. The following three strategies do just this. Use them, and you’ll find the pump clock ticking slower, regardless of your current strength or ability.

这两种方式对于提高攀岩实力都是有帮助的。然而有太多的攀手过分执着于变得更加强壮，却忽略了优化自己的力量分配以及加快恢复过程的价值。的确所有的攀岩好手都很强壮-但并非个个都能成为顶尖高手。差距往往体现在细微之处：动作的经济性，防止充血,以及尽可能的促进攀登过程中的恢复效果。以下的三条策略即可服务于此。无论你现在的力量和能力水平怎样，实践一下，就会发现手臂充血的时间延缓了.
Climb with more economy. Most climbers get poor fuel economy when climbing near their limit. Learning to climb more efficiently requires a conscious effort, so get a partner and make a game out of it. The following are energy-conserving techniques to practice on moderate routes or in the gym:
• Predetermine the rest positions on a route and only chalk up and rest there. Climb briskly from one rest to the next.

• Limit your time on any given hold to five seconds or less, except for rest positions. Climb past the smallest, pumpy holds as fast as possible.

• Vary your grip position whenever possible. Alternate between crimps, open hands, thumb locks, pinches, and pocket grips as often as the rock allows. Don’t miss a chance to sink a hand jam or finger lock — these are great energy-saving grips that many face climbers miss.

更加经济性的攀爬。大多数的攀手在接近体能极限的时候尤其不能很好的分配体力。学习更加有效率的攀爬需要有意识的努力锻炼，找个伙伴相互竞赛吧。以下保存体力的技巧既可以在中等难度的线路上也可以在健身房里进行：

   

•预先设定好一条路线的休息点并且只在那一点上休息。在休息点间攀爬的时候要动作敏捷。

   

•将每次握点的时间限制在5秒或更短，休息点除外。攀爬至小点，以及容易导致充血的点的时候要尽快通过。

   

•根据岩石的情况，尽可能的改变你的抓握方式。交替使用crimp（用来抓只能容纳指尖的很小的点），open hands(靠手掌和前指节的摩擦)，thumblocks（拇指扣），pinches（各种捏），以及pocket grips（用于攀爬岩石上的凹坑）。不要错过任何使用hand jam（把手插入岩缝）或者fingerlock（把手指插入岩缝）的机会-这些节省体力的技巧是很多初级攀手做的不好的地方。

     

Flex your fingers and wrist between grips. Recovering on a route is something most climbers just let happen. This is a mistake — instead, take a proactive role in the recovery process. Open and close your fingers or flex your wrist between each grip. Visualize flicking water off your fingers or hand as you reach for the next hold — that’s the motion you are after. This spurs blood flow through the forearm muscles — which actually stops during times of maximum gripping. The aggregate effect of doing this between every grip will significantly reduce your accumulated pump.

每次抓握的间歇要舒展你的手指和手腕。多数的爬手不太在意边爬边恢复的过程。然而这是不对的-反之我们应该更积极主动的去促进这一过程。每次抓握的间歇都尝试活动手指及手腕。想象你在抓握下一个点之前抖落手上的汗水-那就是你要做的动作。这样会刺激血液在前臂肌肉中的循环-这种循环往往在握力到达极限的时候就停滞了。每次抓握的间歇所积累起来的这种效果就能很好的减少累积的充血现象。
Use the G-Tox to speed recovery at rests. The “dangling arm shakeout” is the technique universally used to foster pump recovery. It is not, however, the best technique. A more effective method uses gravity to your advantage; hence, I call it the “G-Tox”. Alternate the position of your resting arm between the normal dangling position and an above-your-head position. For example, gently wiggle your arm in the normal by-the-side rest position for five seconds, then raise it to a half-bent position above your shoulder and shake it gently for five seconds. Repeat this cycle as often as needed — or for as long as you can hang out at the rest!

   

使用G-Tox来加快休息间歇的恢复速度。“手臂悬垂抖动”是比较广泛使用的缓和充血征状的方法。然而却不是最好的。更有效的方法需要利用重力；所以我把它叫做“G-抗原”就是要让处于休息状态的那只手臂在正常的悬垂状态和高过头部的位置之间进行切换（如图）例如：将手臂在体侧的悬垂位置轻轻的摆动五秒钟，然后将手臂抬过肩膀呈半弯曲的状态再轻轻摆动五秒钟。视情况重复这种循环-你能保持在休息位置上的时间越久就可以重复越多的次数。

The pump sensation you feel in the forearms is largely the result of accumulated lactic acid and restricted blood flow. While the dangling-arm shakeout allows good blood flow into the forearm, it doesn’t help the flow of “old blood” out of the forearm, due to the arm’s position below your heart. The result is a traffic jam of sorts, which perpetuates the pump and slows recovery. (Have you ever noticed how the pump often increases as you begin the shakeout process with your arm by your side?) The G-Tox technique makes gravity your ally by aiding venous return to the heart. This enhances the removal of lactic acid and speeds recovery. The effects of this technique are unmistakable — you will literally feel your pump “drained” as you elevate your arm. Use the G-Tox at all your mid-climb shakeouts by deliberately alternating the position of your resting arm, between raise-hand and dangling position, every five to ten seconds.   

你的前臂所感受到的充血状态很大程度上是由于乳酸的堆积以及血液流通不畅造成的。然而由于手臂的位置低于心脏，所以抖动悬垂的手臂只能让新鲜的血液流进前臂，但是不能促进“陈血”流出前臂。结果就像堵车那样，加剧了充血而减缓了恢复。（你可曾注意到当你在体侧摆动手臂的时候充血通常更严重了？）G-tox就是将重力转化为你有利的伙伴的技巧，帮助有“毒”的血液流回到心脏。这样便有助于去除乳酸并加速恢复。这样做的效果错不了的-在你抬起手臂的同时你会真切的体会到充血“排出”的感觉。在每段攀岩当中使用G-Tox技巧吧，重点就在于有意识的在每次抬手悬挂身体休息另一只胳膊的时候上下改变手臂抖动的位置，间隔为每五到十秒钟。

古袅袅

学习了~~明天开始我也抖

大元

大家一起抖

蓝色之艺

抖抖爬得高

奋青

学习了。。。。。。抖抖更健康

cai

学习了~~~~~~

donedj

这个很有用，一定要学啊

小心失去

原来是这样呀……