ZT登山中合理的拖包系统

逛山

Hauling sense
作者by Matt Samet
配图 by Mike Clelland
译者：
华仔
译者注：（原文发表于www.climbing. com，译者尽可能如实的翻译原文，本文仅供参考。如需转载，请全文转载并注明出处，以便大家更好的理解本文！）
On steep alpine free routes, where you need to have extra clothing and food along, but can’t be burdened by climbing with a heavy pack, there’s an easy albeit time-consuming solution: hauling.

在高山的自由攀登线路的一个峭壁上,你想加点衣服和吃点东西,但是攀登的时候你不可能背上很重的背包,有一个虽然容易但却花时间的办法:拖包
With this, however, comes the extra clutter of the haul line and the pack at each belay ledge. I can’t count how many times my haul line has become tangled in the lead line, causing endless frustration and rearranging when I should have been climbing. But I’ve finally learned that streamlining the pack-hauling process and maintaining an orderly belay will help you save precious minutes, if not hours. Here are a few ways to go about it.

如果采用拖包的方式,,拖运线路和背包在设保护站的小平台上会导致一些额外的麻烦和混乱.我已经不能计算有多少次当我准备攀登的时候我的拖包的绳子和我的先锋保护绳缠在一起,那时候带给我的是无尽的挫败感.但是,我终于悟出了一个带保护的有序的拖包的办法,这个办法能帮助你节省宝贵的时间,如果是要爬几天的线路,,那会省上几小时.
Use a Tibloc or two. While strenuous, hand-over-hand hauling is often the quickest way to get the pack up to the belay, you can rest between tugs by running the haul line through a carabiner rigged with a Petzl Tibloc. The Tibloc is a featherweight ascender that lets the rope feed smoothly in one direction, while clamping it firmly in the other. Rig a pulley by running the rope through the biner and Tibloc (oriented properly for the direction of pull) high on the anchor. Now you can let go of the haul line anytime you want, without fear of dropping the pack into an anchor-stressing freefall.

用一个或两个 Tibloc (译者注 ETZL出的一种无手柄的小上升器).如果使劲,通过一个穿着主锁的Tibloc,用手一把一把的把包拉到保护点经常是比较快的.在你做苦工的时候你还可以休息一会.Tibloc是一款非常轻巧的上升器,让绳能够向一个方向平稳的通过,如果反向,上升器上的倒齿能够牢牢卡住绳子.在高处的锚点上装配一个穿着绳子由主锁和Tibloc组成的滑轮(要注意拖的方向,不要搞反了).现在你可以在任何时候使用你的拖拉系统,不用害怕因为包的自重中途包会掉下去.,
If you want to save your arm strength for the climbing, you can let your legs do the hauling by bringing another Tibloc. Simply attach the second Tibloc to your side of the haul line with a long sling, then step down on the sling to pull the rope through the carabiner-pulley. While the first Tibloc holds the load, you can slide the second Tibloc and sling back up the rope, and repeat. This technique is not as fast as hand-over-hand hauling, but the heavier the pack, the more useful it becomes.

如果你想节省一下你攀爬时胳膊的力量,你可以用另一个Tibloc,让腿来拖包,把第二个带长绳套的Tibloc用注锁卡在拖包的绳上.然后向下踩绳套,通过锚点上的铁锁组成的滑轮,就可以把包拉上来了.当第一个上升器承担住包的重量的时候,你可以把第二个上升器往上移,绳套又回到原来的位置,如此反复,这个办法没有手拉来的快,但如果包很重的时候,相当有效.
Tame your ropes. Left to their own devices, ropes will get crossed, stuck, and knotted at belays. Avoid the inconvenient lap or leg coil by using long slings to stack your ropes. Use separate slings for your climbing and haul lines, and coil each rope butterfly-style as it comes in, draping arm-length bights of rope over alternating sides of the sling. Don’t even think of pulling in the climbing rope until your haul pack is clipped into the anchor and the haul line is stacked neatly out of the way. You can prevent the climbing and haul ropes from crossing by keeping them on separate sides of the anchor.

理顺你的绳子.如果只管拉绳子,不去理,在保护站绳子会缠到一起,打结.用一根长绳套做绳子的堆栈可以避免绳子堆得乱成一团或者把你的腿都缠住.攀登和拖拉绳要用不同的绳套来分开,当绳子收上来的时候要在堆栈上每一圈都要分两边摆好,每边垂下来一个手臂的长度.在你拖包的时候不要去收攀登绳,一直到包拉到了保护站,而且拉包的绳子已经在堆栈上整理的漂亮整洁后再去收攀登绳.让攀登绳和拖拉绳在保护站分好边,这样你可以防止攀登绳和拖包的绳缠到一起.

Before hauling, make a burrito. If you are forced to bring two packs up the route, combine them into one before you begin. An empty pack can be compressed into a small wad and stuffed into the bottom of the other pack, reducing drag while hauling and halving your risk of snagging a pack under a roof.

在拖包前,要把包重新装一下.如果你在线路上带了两个包,在你拖包前要把两个包合成一个包.把空了的包压小卷起塞进另一个包的底部,免得一个包在另一个包上面拖包的时候可能被卡住.

Pack wisely. Poor packing is another cause of belay-ledge snafus. To avoid unnecessary rummaging, keep high-use items like food, warm hat, and gloves in the top lid, and put water and rain jackets right at the top of the main compartment. As I learned in a deluged rappel during my attempt on the Diamond last summer, the bottom of the pack is probably the worst place to stash your rain gear

精明的装包.如果不会装包,当包拉到保护平台上后,会引起一些混乱.从包里拿东西的时候,为了避免不必要的把包翻个底朝天,要把一些使用率高的东西如食物,保暖帽,手套放在顶包里,把水和冲锋衣放在包主舱的顶部.去年夏天我在爬钻石山的时候,遇到了大雨,我的防雨装备居然放在包的隔断的底部,当时我就意识到我放的地方是多么的差了.

大元

学习了！攀岩就像做事，理得顺顺溜溜的就会很有效率，如果总是“差求不多”那就等着麻烦来找你吧

蓝色之艺

一套严谨的拖包系统