[事故分析] 丹奥斯曼Dan Osman 事故分析（翻译）

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发表于 2010-4-28 21:05:18 |只看该作者 |倒序浏览

I think it is time I spoke up publicly.  I have reviewed Dano's rope in some detail.  My findings and theory support those published by Kevin Worrall in Climbing (No 183, March 1999, Pg 90).
我想现在是时候公开讲话了。我已详细检查了Dano的绳子。我的发现和理论支持被K W发布在Climbing（1999年3月第183期90页）上。

This statement is mine personally and NOT that of Black Diamond Equipment! This is obvious as you read below.
很明显你下面阅读的这个报告是我个人言论而不是BD设备公司的！

Irrelevant Background: I am a Materials Engineer with BS degrees in Physics and Materials Engineering and a ME in Materials Engineering (I nearly finished a PhD but bailed once I learned I did not enjoy being a scientist any longer).  I know lots about atomic layer semiconductor crystal growth.  I have been the Quality Assurance Manager for Black Diamond Equipment for 6 years.  My primary responsibility is the testing and analysis of climbing equipment, among other stuff.  I have been involved in the ASTM climbing and mountaineering standards development for the last 4 years.  I investigate all accidents I hear of involving equipment failure, whether they are BD's or not.  I review rec.climbing every day looking specifically for posts related to accidents, gear, misuses of gear, issues about BD, etc.  I, and others at BD, go out of our way on this news group to publish information above and beyond what is required by the standards that climbing gear is designed to (see the recent lame thread on "Gear Safety" which I will not respond to specifically.  See Karl Lew's web site.  Search under my name on dejanews for examples).  I do not post to this news group as a general rule unless I think that posts from various people are specifically wrong or misleading, as is the current case (in fact I try to avoid posting because of commercial conflict of interest).  I respond to individuals on this news group constantly and my comments to these people come back into this group (see the current RP thread on soldering cable fatigue).  I respond in detail to individuals who ask me questions, even when they do not like what BD is about (see recent Camalot threads and failure analysis associated with this thread).
不相关的背景：我是物理和材料工程学士学位也是材料工程ME（我差点完成材料工程博士学位，但是一次被保释让我知道不再想成为一位科学家）。我知道很多关于原子层半导体晶体的生长。我已经在BD做了6年质量保证经理。我的主要责任是在其他材料设备的测试和分析。我已经参与美国ASTM攀岩、登山标准制定至少4年了。我调查我听到的所有涉及设备故障的意外，无论设备是否是BD生产的。我每天查阅rec.climbing 尤其寻找公布的相关事故、设备、设备故障、关于BD的事件等等。我和BD的其他人员在新闻组织之外公布上面的信息，也超出了登山设备设计标准的要求（见最近"Gear Safety" 上的lame thread，关于这个我不会回应，看Karl Lew 的网站。在我名字下用dejanews为例搜索）。在目前情况下，除非我认为来自不同的人的回复有特别错误或者误导性，否则我是不会回复的（事实上我试着避免回复是因为商业的利益冲突）。我在帖子里不断回复，人们又会对我的回复做出评论（see the current RP thread on soldering cable fatigue）。我详细的回应个人对我提出的问题，即使他不喜欢BD（见 Camalot 线和与之相关的失效分析）。

Even more irrelevant background: I have been rock climbing since 1981, and am primarily a trad climber.  I am a risk taker because I climb.  Climbing IS dangerous and anyone who thinks otherwise if fooling themselves.  Anyone who climbs is a risk taker in my opinion.  I climb 5.12 on any rock type (that I have been on) and style (except offwidth, so far) and have onsighted up to 12c/d.  I climb WI6 and possibly harder (ice is either hard or easy to me and is my primary passion).  I climb M8. I establish new rock, ice and mixed routes ground up with and without bolts.  I have no aid or alpine experience.  I weight 190 lbs and take upside-down 40 to 60 footers without my helmet on.  I have nearly killed myself several times due to falling off 5.8.  I am a climber, climbing eventually involves falling, which may very well kill or maim me.  Most people, including myself, would consider me to be reckless because of how I climb.  I climb for my own reasons and no one else's.  I don't care what people think about me in general.  Why Dano jumped off cliffs is his own personal choice that nobody has a right to argue against, even if he had children in my
opinion.  I certainly have no right to judge his reasons for doing what he did.  I respect Dano for pushing the limits way way beyond where they had been previously.  I met Dano twice but did not know him.  I know many of his friends.
更多的不相关背景：
（没啥用，懒的翻译了）

Relevant Background: My expertise in the analysis of broken climbing ropes is very limited. This is due to the fact that climbing ropes very rarely break or cut in actual use.  The only previous experience I have with rope failure analysis was that of Matt Baxter who died on El Cap several years ago when his rope was cut by a flake after a carabiner had broken (see dejanews for more info on this, send a Freedom of Information Request to the NPS-I recommend you do it for the Dano accident as well and then you can have a copy of my official report, or look at ANAM).  I have also reviewed several ropes with sheaths shredded due to the open back regular carabiner gates in minor axis.  This lack of experience could indicate that my findings are incorrect or suspect.
相关背景：我对损坏的登山绳分析上的专业技能是有限的。这归因于登山绳在实际使用中很少断裂。以往唯一的经验是我对几年前Matt Baxter 在 El Cap 死亡的绳子失效分析，当时他的绳子在一个铁锁损坏后被一个岩石页片割断（在dejanews上可以看到更多信息，给NPS发送一个自由信息，我希望你们也对Dano的事故做同样的分析，然后给我一份官方的报告，或者查看ANAM）。我也检查了一些因为在短轴敞开式的铁锁门而外皮破损的绳子。缺乏的经验可能表明我的发现不正确或者让人怀疑。

I first became involved in Dano's accident when news of Dano's death spread across this news group with the associated rumors that the NPS might have purposely cut his rope.  On December 9, 1998 I sent an email to John Dill (YOSAR director) letting him know of these rumors on this news group and offered my assistance in the analysis of Dano's equipment.  John responded back that Yosemite Law Enforcement (YLE) was investigating the accident and that they had to finish their investigation before I might be able to see the ropes (they too knew of the rumors of murder and were investigating this as well I suspect).  As you all should know Dan's ropes stayed on the wall for over a month and YLE was unable to recover them. Given the rumors of tampering by the NPS a climber took matters into his own hands.  He recovered the ropes and sent them directly to BD.  As soon as I received the ropes I contacted YLE because I was in possession of stolen federal evidence from an active investigation.  I was told to return the ropes immediately and reveal the name of the person who sent me the ropes.  While on the phone with the lead investigator another phone call came into BD from "someone within YLE" stating that the FBI would be at BD to arrest me if I did not send the ropes back the next day.  I was freaking out to say the least.  Meanwhile I looked at the rope in some detail.  It was melted through.  It looked as if there were the possibility that someone had hot cut the rope.  When I called YLE back and told them this they wanted me to conduct my full investigation and allowed me to keep the rope for two weeks.  No FBI showed up to haul me away.
我第一次参与到Dano 的事故中是Dano 死亡的消息在这个组织中传播时，伴随着NPS也许故意切断他绳子的相关谣言。在1998年12月9日我给John Dill（YOSAR 主任）发了电子邮件让他知道关于组织的这些谣言并提供了我在Dano 设备分析的帮助。John答复说：“Yosemite Law Enforcement (YLE)正在调查事故，在我见到绳子之前他们必须完成他们的调查（他们也知道谋杀的谣言，我猜测他们也正在调查这个）。”大家都应该知道Dano的绳子在岩壁上呆了一个多月而且YLE无法回收他们。NPS提供干扰的谣言，一个攀登者把问题掌握在自己手中。他回收了绳子直接送回了BD。我一收到绳子就YLE就联系了我，因为我涉嫌在一个从正在进行的调查中偷取相关证据。我被告知立即返还绳子，并提供给我寄绳子人的姓名。正当我和首席调查员通话时另一个来自“YLE中某人”打到BD说如果我明天不交出绳子FBI将在BD逮捕我。至少可以说我被吓坏了。同时我详细的检查了绳子。它被通过融化。看起来好像有种可能有人热切割了绳子。当我给YLE回电话告诉他们这件事，他们想让我进行全面调查，并允许我再保留绳子两个星期。没有FBI出现把我带走。

Analysis:
分析：
I only saw the one section of rope that was cut down and contained the failure point.  I did not see the rigging, retrieval rope, or the section that was attached to Dan directly.
我只看到一段被割断的绳子包含故障点。我没有看到锁具，补偿绳，或者直接连接在Dan身上的那段绳子。
Everything I did was visual examination.  I did not untie any knot or tamper with the rope in any way other than prying the knots to see inside. With some insight from Doug Heinrich I concluded that the failure of Dan's rope was not due to tensile overload or from being tampered with.  I strongly believe that Dan did miscalculate on his last jump. For some reason he moved his jump site.  In doing so he crossed the ropes (either on the retrieval line or on the main jump line).  When he jumped the first knot above the one he was tied in with slid down a section of rope several lengths up.  The sheath was heavily melted and removed in several sections on this upper part of the rope.  The knot that slid down the rope was melted in multiple locations and was melted nearly completely through, deep inside the knot.  This knot was not tight, yet others in the system were (this is the one open question that is unresolved as far as I know). It is my conclusion that Dan's rope was cut by his own rope sliding against itself.  Use of a magnifying glass indicated to me that the cut surface was due to sliding action in one direction.  There was no evidence of hot cutting with a knife or other type of instrument.  I conducted further experiments in my lab to see if tensile overload could have caused this failure.  The samples I tested were significantly different in that they were heavily frayed and tattered.  My analysis of Dan's ropes in general was that they were in great condition.  There was no evidence to me of damage due to previous falls, uv exposure, or weather.  I would have climbed on these ropes without any hesitation had they not been from this accident.  I do not believe that the condition of the ropes had anything at all to do with the failure of the ropes.  Nor do I believe that Dan's basic shock absorbing setup was incorrect.  Crossing the ropes was the problem.
我所做的一切只是视觉上的表面检查。我没有用任何方式解开任何结或者篡改了绳子，而是窥视绳子来看到其内部。伴随着来自Doug Heinrich的直觉，我推断Dan的绳子失效不是因为过度拉伸或者受到干扰。我坚信，Dan在最后一跳中没有算错。出于某种原因他改变了他的跳跃位置。这样做他交叉了绳子（既不是在副绳上也不是在主跳绳上）。当他下跳时，在他所绑的绳结上的第一个绳结向下滑了很长一节。绳子的外皮严重融化，绳子上端的很长一段脱落。滑下绳子的绳结在多个位置被融化，而且几乎完全融化到了绳结内部。这个绳结是不紧的，而其他的绳结是紧的（据我所知这是一个悬而未决的问题）。这是我的结论，Dan的绳子被自己滑动的绳子割断。使用一个放大镜向我表明了切割表面是由于一个位置的滑动行为。没有用到或其他类型工具进行热切割的证据。我在我的实验室中进行了进一步的实验，来测试过度拉伸是否可以造成这个事故。我的测试样品明显不同，他们受到严重磨损而且破旧。我分析Dan的绳子一般状况良好。没有证据告诉我来自于以前的瀑布，紫外线照射或者天气的损害。如果没有这次事故我会毫不犹豫的爬上这根绳子。我不相信绳子的状态对绳子的失效有任何责任。也不相信Dan的基本减震设置不正确。交叉的绳子是一切问题。

I was asked by YLE not to make my findings public until they had finished their criminal investigation.  They forced me to tell them who sent me the rope and they pressed charges against this individual (I will have to live with the fact that I was unable to keep this information confidential).  I still have not heard back from YLE about closure of this accident and decided to make my findings public now due to the vast numbers of misinformed posts relative to this subject.  Maybe my analysis will stop some of the useless bickering many of you are currently engaged in.
YLE告诉我不要把我的发现公诸于众，知道他们完成了犯罪调查。他们强迫我告诉他们谁给了我绳子，他们还控告了那个人（我必须以这种方式生活，我不能秘密地保存这个信息）。我还没有从YLE得到有关这个事故的终止，但我决定把发现公之于众是因为对这个事件相关的大量误导。也许我的分析将会停止一些你们中很多人从事的没必要的争吵。

Conclusions:
结论：
What is to be learned from this accident?  NEVER LET NYLON SLIDE AGAINST NYLON!  You should already know this.
我们从事故中学到了什么？绝对不要让尼龙滑入尼龙！你应该已经知道这个了。

I also know that Dano's rigging setup was reviewed by more than a couple of technically competent people.  I also know that he tested it multiple times.  I personally do not think that what Dan was doing (when done properly as he had done on earlier jumps) was any more dangerous than modern ice climbers doing hard thin ice routes (like in Maple Canyon and elsewhere), in fact his setup was most likely safer in my personal opinion.  Dan's death was a tragedy and an accident.
我还知道Dano的装置设置被很多技术扎实的人检查过。我还知道他测试了它很多次。我个人不认为Dan所做的（就像他在以前跳跃中做的一样正确）比现代攀冰者所做的硬薄冰线路（在Maple Canyon 或其他地方）危险，事实上，我个人意见他的设置是最安全的。Dan的死亡是一个悲剧和意外。