动态练习的14个技巧zt

逛山

Naturally, every dyno is, to a certain extent, unique in terms of holds, angles, length etc., but there is also at least one aspect in which all dynos are similar; you have to let go... What decides if you are to succeed are your physical shape, technique, but most of all your mind. Here are 14 pieces of advice and training tips from a 166 cm short man, with negative gorilla index and a 193 cm tall guy with positive gorilla index.


1. Let the catching hand go as late as possible!
A very common fault among beginners is to let the catching hand go too early in the movement. Doing this, you?ll lose a lot of power which the hand would have generated if you?d have let it go later. You get a longer part of the dyno without contact. The best way to correct this mistake is probably to do the "candle". This means trying to get the body as high (up in the air that is) as possible without letting the hands go until the lose touch with the hold through the momentum of the body.

2. Slap on the wall/hold!
When you start working a dyno, it often feels impossible. You feel there?s no use even trying really, and if you do, you don?t really go for it. To get a sense of improvement, start slapping the wall as high up as possible. Try to set new personal records. In time the record often gets dangerously close to the hold, and you can start trying to grab it.

3. Recruit the whole move!
It?s an easy mistake to only recruit the muscles active in the first faces of a dyno, forgetting the muscles that come in to play later, in the actual grabbing-face. The reason for this is simple: you won?t use the contact-muscles if you can?t do the catch... Recruitment-wise, the best is if you can reach the hold and put weight on it, if only for a micro second, since, this way, all the necessary muscle fibers gets to play. If you can?t reach the hold by your own power, use someone else?s, or the rope. You can also, with support, try reversing the move.

4. Push with your feet!
Don?t forget most of the power in a dyno originates from your legs. Try putting as much weight as possible on the foot holds, to the point where you actually skids off them (paragraph 7). It?s most often an advantage using as soft shoes as possible, since you this way get the most out of the muscles in your feet. Remember, those muscles are also recruitable!

5. Use "the bungee cord" to your advantage!
To gain momentum, you should start every dyno with a vertical motion, up and then down, to kind of extend the bungee cord, to be able to use its power to be catapulted (hopefully) toward the hold you?re aiming for. If you don?t have enough room for this, it?s also possible to gain momentum by swinging side to side.

6. Long, even applying of power
A common mistake is to use too much power in the first faces of the move. Doing this, it?s very easy to lose contact with the holds, and hence the only way to keep the momentum, in the last and often deciding face. Sometimes it?s best not to use all the fuel at once...

7. Use the lower hand to the maximum
Before you?ve managed to literally pull the lower hand off the hold, you haven?t tried how much power you can apply to it. This is, of course, not true for jugs, but on smaller holds you must push toward the limit of what?s possible to gain maximum effect.

8. Dyno inwards
A problem when catching is that it?s often hard to keep close enough to the rock, but swing out. A way of solving this is to dyno inwards by starting with more or less straight arms leaning out from the rock, and then through yourself inwards, upwards.

9. Over- or under curve?
When dynoing diagonally, it?s important to chose an over- or under curve. It?s impossible to design a rule for when to use which, since the possible hold placement combinations are infinite. Simply try what feels best for you. Maybe you should just go straight for the hold!

10. Tick-marks
To mark the hold you?re going for with a bright white chalk-line is an underestimated method to improve your timing. Don?t just dust some chalk on the hold, use clear, bright tick-marks, you won?t be disappointed. If the hold is somewhat hidden you can also draw arrows etc. to make it easier to know where to aim.

11. Hyperventilate
Experiments show you?ll actually gain short term power by hyperventilating. It has probably something to do with adrenaline being freed, and that you, hence, get a bit mad... Try 4-5 fast deep breaths and go for it!

12. Timing & Dead-points
A successful catch is often about being able to keep one foot to the rock, and it?s often also important to reach the hold at the dead-point, that is in a kind of weightless state, neither going up or down. This is especially true when you?re dynoing sideways or to a side pull. If you use to much power and still are going upwards/sideways when you get the hold, it?s very easy to swing out and lose balance.

13. Contact-time and grip-positioning
The clue is to make the contact-time as long as possible when you get your fingers on the hold. Doing this you allow the muscles to be maximally recruited, and to reach a flexing crimp-position. First the fingers bend upwards, and then downwards, all in a fraction of a second. A special trick is to through your head back to extend the dead-point for a couple of 1/100 of a second.

14. Practice makes perfect
Last, but not least, it?s the amount of dedicated training you?ve put in that will decide. Your body needs to learn the movement so to speak, for the muscles to be able to interact perfectly. You can?t think of all the advice above when you?re trying a dyno, you must work them one by one, until you do it naturally. Now, fly baby fly.?

[ 本帖最后由 逛山 于 2009-6-30 09:21 编辑 ]

逛山

楼下开动脑筋的一人翻译一条吧！
1怎样才能让我们动态的时候成功率更高！最常见的一个错误就是新手在做dyno的时候出手太早，那样做只能让你耗费更多的体力，如果你出手晚一点你dyno的时候会让身体更舒展！纠正这种错误的最好方法可能是让自己尽量去dyno而在身体没有到达最高点的时候不出手！

逛山

2. Slap on the wall/hold!

When you start working a dyno, it often feels impossible. You feel there?s no use even trying really, and if you do, you don?t really go for it. To get a sense of improvement, start slapping the wall as high up as possible. Try to set new personal records. In time the record often gets dangerously close to the hold, and you can start trying to grab it.

边巴晋美翻译
2、拍墙、拍点

当开始尝试一个极限动态时，总是觉得够不着。

妈的，也忒远了吧。

真的去尝试了，还真的够不着。咋整？

就像追女孩子一样，首先我们要无限的去接近，接近了，女孩子总有虚弱的时候，你就有成功的机会。

在攀岩中也是这样，先无限的接近目标点，朝着目标方向去无限接近吧--尽可能去跳。

慢慢的，你的拍到的位置距离目标越来越近了。

尝试去抓住他/她吧。

死抓不放？对，一定要狠下心来，抓住了死活不放！手指废了？心碎了

极度xx

死抓不放？对，一定要狠下心来，抓住了死活不放！手指废了？心碎了

你这是教人残废呢么，手皮都没了，心也就碎了

KID_P

3. Recruit the whole move! I

t's an easy mistake to only recruit the muscles active in the first faces of a dyno, forgetting the muscles that come in to play later, in the actual grabbing-face. The reason for this is simple: you won't use the contact-muscles if you can't do the catch... Recruitment-wise, the best is if you can reach the hold and put weight on it, if only for a micro second, since, this way, all the necessary muscle fibers gets to play. If you can't reach the hold by your own power, use someone else's, or the rope. You can also, with support, try reversing the move.

边巴晋美翻译：

直译为：
【3、调动整个动作】
在第一次做一个动态的时候，如果仅仅调动肌肉是一个容易犯的错误。
忘记肌肉，肌肉在后面会跟进的，就想着抓住目标点。
理由很简单：如果你没有抓住，说明你的没有使用正确的肌肉。
明智的调动，最理想的情况是你抓到了目标点，并把重心移动了过去，仅仅只有一点点时间，这时，所有必需的肌肉纤维都参与了这个动作。
如果你仅靠自己的力量不能抓到目标点，那么借助其他的什么，比如借助绳子也可以。
你也可以在有帮助的情况下复习这样的动作。

意译为：
【3、把注意力放在做出完整的动作上】
很多岩友在做动作前，总是在计算自己的力量是否足够来完成这个动作。
特别是在够不着的时候，就是要动态的时候，结果越是计算越是够不着。
我们看世界杯选手，他们的脱落似乎和力量无关，观众们哇......，然后抱以热烈的掌声，似乎他们是“失误”而脱落了。
如果你是教练，你或许会说：“Jorg/Tomasz/Ramon/Patxi/刘常忠，别着急，慢一点，你就能抓到后面一个点了......你就是冠军了......”。
实际上并不是这样，就像我们也不是他们的教练一样。
他们只是在做一个动作而已，类似的动作，已经做过无数遍了，只是由于角度、距离、点型，甚至或许因为比赛前没去洗手间，从而导致他们在身体自动协调肌肉群运作的时候出现了问题。他们去完成一个完整动作，只是没有完成，仅此而已。
而这点，恰恰是我们无数次训练所追求的：人就是做动作，肌肉自动协调，结果是达成或是不达成。
动态的时候也是如此。
OK，我们需要达成，达成的时候肌肉自动协调OK。
不达成的时候，肌肉自动协调不OK。
肌肉是否自动达成，我们控制不了，我们脑子的计算速度也没有这个能力来计算和控制这几百块肌肉。
我们只有把注意力放在动作上，通过动作的达成来实现肌肉的自动协调。

KID_P

4. Push with your feet!

Don?t forget most of the power in a dyno originates from your legs. Try putting as much weight as possible on the foot holds, to the point where you actually skids off them (paragraph 7). It?s most often an advantage using as soft shoes as possible, since you this way get the most out of the muscles in your feet. Remember, those muscles are also recruitable!

P孩译：

4.用脚推动

别忘了大部分力量都源于你的双腿。试着尽可能将大部分重量都放在脚上支撑，即那个你实际上要跃起的脚点上（见第 七段）。通常穿尽量软一点的鞋子是有优势的，这样你才可以最有效的运用脚上肌肉。记住，这些肌肉是可以恢复并且复原的。

总结：将自己身体大部分重量放在脚上，踩合适的脚点，穿合适的鞋子，朝目标用力猛蹬，经过多次尝试一定能获得成功，不要吝惜你叫上的力气，吃饭可以补回来。哈哈