老陕攀登

标题: 使用冰爪和技术冰镐“发展后的”技术 [打印本页]

作者: 清风    时间: 2009-2-7 22:56
标题: 使用冰爪和技术冰镐“发展后的”技术
[attach]608[/attach]使用冰爪和技术冰镐“发展后的”技术
译者: 华仔
译者注:(原文发表于
http://www.grivel.com/,译者尽可能如实的翻译原文,本文仅供参考。如需转载,请全文转载并注明原出处,以便大家更好的理解本文!这是国外高山向导教材的第六部分第一节,整个文章我将陆续译出上传,译得不太妥的地方请大家提出来。)

AREA :
Small ice walls offering particular workable forms : icicles, cauliflower, mushroom, air pockets and fragile ice.

DESCRIPTION :
Anchor the tools in these forms being careful not to plant them but rather hook them or wedge them so as not to destroy the ice. The axes often only hold when pulled on downwards using traction.
The experience on this terrain helped favor the evolution of the equipment and gave birth to tools with sharply bent shafts, which allows especially when climbing cauliflower ice, to obtain an optimal placement when compared to traditional shafts where the shaft is more of an obstacle in obtaining a good anchor (fig.83).




范围:
有一些特殊的可用形状的小冰壁:冰柱,花椰菜形冰,蘑菇形冰,空袋形和易碎冰。
描述:
在这些形状的冰壁小心的锚定这些技术工具不是为了把他们安放进冰壁,而是为了不损害冰面,最好是钩住和楔入。
冰镐常常只是向下拉的时候起一个牵引的作用。
在这些地形的经验促使了装备的发展和锐利的曲轴工具的产生。在攀登花椰菜形冰的时候,同传统的直柄工具比起来,曲轴的工具更容易得到理想的锚点(图83)。
When climbing icicles, the axe should be placed by taking little short swings coming from the wrist and not the shoulders or the arms in such that a small hole is made in which the blade is then hooked. Generally speaking this type of ice requires small, precise moves rather than a traditional swing.
It is necessary to practice a lot in order to obtain precision and a feeling for the hold of the tools. On very thin ice or on fragile, thin structures, it may be difficult or even impossible to place or hook both tools. In this case it is possible to hook one pick on the head of the other which allows one to use the strength of both arms to obtain a higher tool placement.
在攀登垂直冰柱的时候,曲轴冰镐只需腕的摆动就可以用钩形刃劈出一个小洞锚定而不需要象以前用肩膀和胳膊,一般来说在这种地形比传统的劈冰需要更小和更精准的动作。
为了找到握持冰镐的感受和掌握精确的动作,练习是必要的。在冰壁非常薄或易碎的地形,想钩住双镐几乎不可能,
这样就只好在上方钩住一根冰镐而用双臂牵引向上以期获得一个理想的高点。
Similarly, crampons have evolved as well, allowing them to be used on these types of ice which is quite different from that for which they were traditionally used, for example : kicking straight on with the foot in order for the front points to penetrate.
The job of the guide or alpine climbing instructor is to progressively bring the student to use his feet better and with more precision. The harder grades due to steepness but above all quality of the ice, requires using crampon techniques similar to those used when climbing with rock shoes. The four front points take on a similar importance as it is often necessary to place them rather than kick them. The inside and outside points are also very important when placing one's weight on the feet.
同样的,冰爪和传统的比起来也有很大的不同,得到了发展使他们能够用于这种地形,例如:带前齿的冰爪使垂直冰面踢冰穿透冰壁成为可能。
日益增多的向导和高山攀登教练的任务是让学员们更好更精确的使用好他们的脚,更高的难度级别意味着更加险峻,
但首要的是冰的质量,因为它可能需要类似像攀岩鞋一样运用冰爪的技巧,冰爪的四个前齿承担着跟攀岩鞋同样重要的功能,有时候如何放置于好他们比如何踢它们显得更有必要。当整个人的重量都在脚上的时候内外齿都非常的重要。
Lifting the foot onto vague terrain and using the points differently allow one to pull with crampon rather than simply push.
Over time these new possibilities have allowed one to be sure even on fragile difficult structures, they require as do the tools, precision and delicateness. On particularly fragile ice, a simple kick of the foot a bit to muscled can lead to the entire structure tumbling down.
The crampon can also be used for counter balance or by hooking with the heel behind icicles or in holes in the ice. When used for counter balance, the foot only pushes against the ice with the side of the crampons; when hooking, a better hook is possible when using heel points (spurs) (fig.84).


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把脚提到一个不明情况的脚点和利用不同的齿点使人有时候带着冰爪做牵引动作,而不只是简单的推进。
随着时间的过去,过去一些易碎和困难的地理结构已不是什么难点已成为可能。他们需要更多的精确和流畅用到技术工具,在特别的易碎冰的地方,有时候一个很小的踢冰动作就可能导致整个冰面结构的崩溃。
冰爪有时用来做反平衡或用脚后跟钩在冰柱上,或者放进冰上的小孔内。当用到反平衡的时候,脚只是用冰爪同一侧抵着冰面,当用钩的动作的时候,脚后跟上的点是很好的钩点(刺激)(图84)。
It is also possible to hook using the points under the foot by opening the knee towards the side and pulling the hips into the ice.
Generally speaking, it is by continuous practice that the student is able to improve and adapt to the diverse situations that difficult ice can offers.
The exercise that allows one to obtain a lot of confidence when using crampons, is by climbing (on a top rope) on ice that has many different shapes and forms without using the axes, the hands using only ice holds. Try to count the number of swings one takes with the axes and try to progressively reduce them in order to increase the feeling and the quality of the placement.
有时候钩住脚下的点,利用坐膝的动作把臀部朝冰面牵引过去也是可能的。一般来说,学员不断的训练能使他们提高和造应各种变化的困难地形。不用镐,手只是扶着冰壁,仅用冰爪攀登(顶绳),连续性的这种训练能使人得到更多的信心。设法去数你挥镐的次数,然后逐渐减少它的次数,多多体会你挥镐的感受和选定更好的下镐点。


[ 本帖最后由 清风 于 2009-2-8 02:08 编辑 ]




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