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标题: 关于结组的保护站的资料（zt） [打印本页]

作者: 逛山 时间: 2011-2-11 15:58
标题: 关于结组的保护站的资料（zt）
本帖最后由逛山于 2011-2-11 17:09 编辑

直接看链接吧！里面有很多讨论很有用http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2352793;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

The sport anchors - multi pitch - two bolts Average: (3 ratings)	Can't Post

The list is under construction. The anchors may be changed, new anchors may be added and old ones removed

The current list, collected from the rc.com community:

Quick-draw anchor
Rope and a fig. 8 (name needed)
Sliding X
The Quad
Fig. 8 bunny ears / Atomic clip
Rope V8
Cow-tail anchor

Three pending anchors, they are listed at the end of this post.

Please post if you know an anchor that is missing from the list, or if you consider any of the listed anchors unsafe.

Details about the anchors:

Quick-draw anchor

[attach]11838[/attach]

[V]Quick
[V]Flexible
[V]Master-point [V]Re-direct
[ ]Equalizes [ ]Equalizes dynamically
[ ]No extension
[ ]Uses minimum gear
[V]No specialized gear needed

Each of the quick-draws may be replaced by a single carabiner, ref the "rope and a fig. 8" anchor

Rope and a fig. 8

[attach]11839[/attach]

[V]Quick
[V]Flexible
[V]Master-point [V]Re-direct
[ ]Equalizes [ ]Equalizes dynamically
[ ]No extension
[V]Uses minimum gear
[V]No specialized gear needed

Sliding X

[attach]11840[/attach]

[V]Quick
[ ]Flexible
[ ]Master-point [ ]Re-direct
[V]Equalizes [V]Equalizes dynamically
[V]No extension
[V]Uses minimum gear
[ ]No specialized gear needed

With re-direct:
[attach]11841[/attach]

[ ]Quick
[ ]Flexible
[V]Master-point [V]Re-direct
[V]Equalizes [V]Equalizes dynamically
[V]No extension
[V]Uses minimum gear
[ ]No specialized gear needed

The Quad

[attach]11842[/attach]

[V]Quick
[ ]Flexible
[ ]Master-point [ ]Re-direct
[V]Equalizes [V]Equalizes dynamically
[V]No extension
[ ]Uses minimum gear
[ ]No specialized gear needed

With re-direct:
[attach]11843[/attach]

[V]Quick
[ ]Flexible
[V]Master-point [V]Re-direct
[V]Equalizes [V]Equalizes dynamically
[V]No extension
[ ]Uses minimum gear
[ ]No specialized gear needed

Fig. 8 bunny ears / Atomic clip

[attach]11844[/attach]

[V]Quick
[V]Flexible
[ ]Master-point [ ]Re-direct
[V]Equalizes [ ]Equalizes dynamically
[V]No extension
[V]Uses minimum gear
[V]No specialized gear needed

Rope V8 New!

[attach]11845[/attach]

[V]Quick
[V]Flexible
[V]Master-point [V]Re-direct
[V]Equalizes [ ]Equalizes dynamically
[V]No extension
[V]Uses minimum gear
[V]No specialized gear needed

Cow-tail anchor

[attach]11846[/attach]

[V]Quick
[V]Flexible
[ ]Master-point [ ]Re-direct
[V]Equalizes [ ]Equalizes dynamically
[V]No extension
[V]Uses minimum gear
[V]No specialized gear needed*

*Only if a long runner is used, any kind of daisy-chains are considered specialized gear

Pending anchors:

Clove hitches

[attach]11847[/attach]

[V]Quick
[V]Flexible
[ ]Master-point [ ]Re-direct
[ ]Equalizes [ ]Equalizes dynamically
[V]No extension
[V]Uses minimum gear
[V]No specialized gear needed

This anchor was made redundant by the "Rope and a fig. 8" anchor. This means that if you want to use this anchor you are better off using the "Rope and a fig. 8" anchor.

"Austrian" anchor

[attach]11835[/attach]

[V]Quick
[V]Flexible
[V]Master-point [ ]Re-direct
[ ]Equalizes [ ]Equalizes dynamically
[V]No extension
[V]Uses minimum gear
[ ]No specialized gear needed

The locker at the masterpoint need a backup, any suggestions?

This anchor was made redundant by the "Rope and a fig. 8" anchor. This means that if you want to use this anchor you are better off using the "Rope and a fig. 8" anchor.

Quick-draw equalizing anchor

[attach]11836[/attach]

[V]Quick
[ ]Flexible
[V]Master-point [V]Re-direct
[V]Equalizes [ ]Equalizes dynamically
[V]No extension
[ ]Uses minimum gear
[V]No specialized gear needed

作者: 逛山 时间: 2011-2-11 16:51
[V]Quick （快捷性）
[V]Flexible （灵活性）
[V]Master-point （字面意思主保护点，住链接点图中意思尚在揣测）[V]Re-direct （受力方向跳转确保点）
[ ]Equalizes （均衡受力）[ ]Equalizes dynamically （自动金衡受力）
[ ]No extension （字面意思没有延伸图中意思尚在揣测）
[ ]Uses minimum gear （使用最少装备）
[V]No specialized gear needed （不需要专门装备）

以上翻译欢迎拍砖

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