準備,觀察路線(Relaxed phase):Chalk if possible; Do not move the foot, which will pops off holds; Do not overcling with handholds.
腳移動至下一踏足點,同時手用力(維持平衡)(Crank/Step phase):High step if possible and precise placement of foot.
鎖住(Lock-off phase):Better getting hips close to the wall; Do not let the foot move on the edge, which will rotate off.
手移動至下一把手點(Extension phase):Do not melt off clinging hands; Free hand must reach for the right handhold; Foot must not blow off.
On near-vertical rock, turnout keeps the body close to the wall, minimizing outward pull on handholds. This is an effective positions typically reduce outward pull on the hands and improve direction of force on handholds by keeping the body close to the rock.
在接近垂直的岩面,移轉身體靠向岩壁,把向外的拉力減到最小,這種典型的姿勢可使手支撐向外的拉力減小,增力往岩壁靠的力氣。
↓腳的位置對於上攀有很大的影嚮;太高,一開始的移動都是靠手拉;太低,抓到下一個把手點之前腳就懸空了。
裂隙(Crack Climbing):裂隙從大到小,尺寸各有不同,都需實地練習。 (Note: It would be wise to tape up well before practicing crack climbing.)
Narrow cracks: Up to 1½ in --- finger and toe tip jams.
Medium cracks: 1½ to 4 in --- hand, fist, foot jams.
Wide cracks: 4 in to body size. Off-width cracks: No part of the body fits well.
Chimney: Entire body or wider.
Pocket Climbing:When using pockets, you can improve two-finger holding power by keeping your index(食指) and pinkie(小指) fingers down with your thumb.
Finger Jam:扭住為最高原則
Two most important rules in jamming:
Move one limb at a time. Achieve solid jams or locks with three limbs before you move a forth one.
Never move on a jam you can't hang on. Take time to get jam right, so that you know you can hang on it.
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Off-Finger Jam:Around a #1.5-Friend-sized crack for the most.
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Thin-Hand Jam:Approximately #2 Friend-sized --- can be the most insecure and also quite strenuous if it's a long section.
Hand Jam:Thumbs down and apply torque. The #2.5 to #3 Friend-sized cracks are the most secure and enjoyable to climb; slightly larger hand cracks, #3.5 Friend-sized, require a more strenuous cup than the standard hand jam.
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Fist Jam:Fist crack run about the size of a #4 Friend for most.
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Off-Width Jam:These are cracks into which you can jam your whole arm and perform armbar. Armbar involves levering your arm in the crack by pushing your hand against one side of the crack while the elbow pushes against the other