Belay used when swapping leads:
Belay station using a sling. Each rope is attached individually to each bolt with a clove hitch.
The locking carabiner and belay device are attached with a clove hitch.
Both bolts are equalized.
Clove hitch for tying off at the anchor
在锚点处打双套结的方法。
When the leader is building the belay, s/he should try to anticipate rope management needs for the next pitch. There are different techniques for this, depending on the situation: whether the team is swapping leads, the same person is leading the entire route, or if its a team of three.
Before setting off on the next pitch, always make sure a redirect is clipped as high as possible on the belay. If the leader falls before clipping the first bolt on the route, this redirect allows for the correct operation of braking belay devices like the REVERSO. Attention: this redirect reduces the fall factor, but increases the potential force on the belay anchors. A redirect on the belay station is for multi-pitch sport climbing, with bolted anchors. If the anchor doesn't seem totally solid, you should avoid this type of set-up.
Obligatory redirect:
On a piece very close to the belay or on the bolted belay itself.
必要的受力变向保护点：
设在一个很接近确保的保护点上，或者直接在螺栓确保点上。
At the belay, the rope is stacked so it won't get tangled or stuck. Try to avoid letting the loops hang lower than the belayer. A few minutes of organization before the leader sets off will help prevent a real mess later.
